Crochet Button Tutorial

Crochet buttons are easy to make, and they're cute as a, uh, button.

You can make the button smaller or bigger by changing the number of single crochets in step 4. If you need a firm button for a garment closure, insert a hard plastic or wood button into the center. Since I used this as a decorative topper for a hat, I just stuffed the yarn tail into the center.

Gauge: not important
Hook: size that works with your yarn

There are a couple of different ways to start the initial circle, but my favorite method starts off with a big loop. A big loop is easy to crochet into, and it feels very satisfying when you pull it shut after completing the the first round.

This tutorial assumes you know how to chain, slip into a stitch, and single crochet.

1. Make a large loop by placing the yarn tail behind the working yarn. Leave a 6 inch tail.

2. Insert the hook through the front of the loop and pull the working yarn through.

3. Chain 1.

4. Make 5 single crochets into loop. Pull tail to close loop.

5. Complete the circle by slipping into 1st single crochet. Chain 1.

6. Single crochet into same single crochet as slipped into. Single crochet twice into each stitch. Close the circle by slipping into 1st single crochet. Chain 1.

7. Single crochet into each stitch. Close the circle by slipping into 1st single crochet. Chain 1.

8. Decrease round: Insert hook into next stitch and pull through a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into next stitch and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, and pull through all loops. Repeat to end of round.

9. Leaving about 12 inches, cut yarn and fasten off. Stuff all (for a fat button), or some (for a flatter button), of the 1st tail into center of button.

10. With 2nd tail, sew closed and attach to your project.

Here's the button atop the Birdie hat.

Sewing a zipper into a sweater

Here’s how I converted the Urban Aran pullover into a zippered cardigan.

Preparations: Divide the stitches for the front into two equal parts. Add 3 stitches to each center front. The first stitch of each row is slipped to form a turned under edge. The remaining 2 stitches will cover the zipper. Knit the fronts. Block the fronts.

Get a zipper. I recommend a two-way zipper because they’re two-times more versatile. Preshrink your zipper. You don’t want anything changing size after your zipper’s sewn in. You can add the zipper as soon as the fronts are done.

Sew it in

1. Pin the center front edges together. The edges should just meet, not overlap. I used stitch markers, and joined the two pieces every ten rows, more or less. It pays to be meticulous before any sewing happens. It’s easier to reposition stitch markers than to dig out a tiny disappearing line of sewing thread.
   
   
2. Baste the fronts with contrasting yarn, removing the stitch markers as you go. Baste with an even tension. Don’t warp the edges by sewing tight. Basting will stabilize your pieces so that nothing shifts before positioning the zipper. This step will be easier if you didn’t skip step one.
   
   
3. Turn the sweater inside out. Place the zipper face down on the sweater. The zipper teeth should match the center seam. Pin the zipper to the sweater.
   
   Note: you can see in the photo below that the zipper is buckling a little. That's because the zipper is a fraction of an inch longer than the sweater. The cables make the center a little shorter than the rest of the sweater, so I stretched it a wee bit so everything matched. It's a judgment call, figuring out if you should stretch the centers, or work in the ease. Depends on the yarn and pattern.
   
   
4. Whipstitch the edges of the zipper tape to the sweater with sewing thread. Make sure this doesn’t show on the public side of the sweater. As you stitch, look at the edge of the tape and make sure it stays parallel to the center rows of the sweater. If you see a row curving out, as in the above photo, nudge it straight with your finger as you sew.
   
   I like to whipstich before actually sewing the zipper in. It’s like basting and finishing at the same time. Get rid of the pins. Now your zipper is positioned, flat, and ready to be sewn.
   
5. Turn the sweater right-side out. Pull out the basting yarn. If you leave it in, it could cause a little wave in your seam. The whipstitch should hold everything in place.
   
6. Turn the sweater inside out. Starting at the bottom of one side, using sewing thread, start a line of stitching. Sew as close to the zipper teeth as possible while still allowing free movement of the zipper pulls—about 1/4 inch. Test the zipper action before sewing too far. Up, down. Up, down. Good job. Use whatever stitch gives you a feeling of confidence. I used a backstitch. Mind the tension.
   
7. Do whatever you need to do—fold, tuck, trim—to make the top edge of the zipper neat.
   
8. Enjoy satisfying two-way zipper action!

This is the method that works for me (pictures of the finished sweater in this post). But, if this seems like a crummy way of doing things, check out these other tutorials.

For detailed advice in determining what zipper length to use, go here. If you need to know how to shorten a zipper, go here. If you’d just like to look at another zipper tutorial, go here.

Final Caveat: Don’t trim a zipper before you create a new zipper stop. If you do, your zipper-pull will fall off. Feels like there should be a punch line here.